A while back, when we saw the “coming soon” sign for College Station’s new Varsity Grillhouse, we assumed that Atlanta’s famed greasy-spoon dive was on its way to Aggieland. Our first visit there proved quite the opposite. Unlike the Atlanta staple, College Station’s independently owned Varsity is a sleek, modern building with an open feel produced by high ceilings, large windows, and light-colored brick walls. The modern architecture contrasts cheekily with the giant football scoreboard and old-school tennis rackets that adorn its walls. And while sports-through-the-ages photos underscore the restaurant’s name, this is not your traditional sports bar (only one TV was in evidence). Varsity Grillhouse does, however, pride itself on its wide selection of one-of-a-kind craft cocktails. As for the menu, it’s pretty predictable, with salads, sandwiches, steaks, and chicken. We tried the chicken-fried steak, which was tender enough and crisply breaded but lacking in the flavor department. Our friend’s salmon was a better choice, well cooked, adequately seasoned. All in all, while the prices are on the high side, especially for dishes that are easily found elsewhere in town, we thoroughly enjoyed the friendly service and the stylish atmosphere.